The Journey Begins
Traveling west from Andrijevica in Montenegro leads to the enchanting regions of Plav and Gusinje, often referred to as the “Pearls of Prokletije.” This area, due to various events in both recent and distant history, has remained hidden in the embrace of the mountains.
Pristine Nature Preserved
Nature in this region has remained largely untouched by human activity. While this isolation has contributed to economic underdevelopment, it has also preserved the area’s natural beauty. As a result, this region is now one of the most beautiful tourist destinations in the Balkans for genuine nature lovers.
The Rugged Prokletije
Montenegro’s Prokletije is just one part of a vast mountain massif that extends mainly across Albania. The range stretches from the Zeta Valley in Montenegro in a southwest-northeast direction, all the way to the Šar Mountains in Macedonia.
A Challenge for Adventurers
The name “Prokletije” suggests the inaccessibility of the terrain and vividly describes the nature of the area, which can be quite unforgiving.
Remnants of the largest glaciation in Europe after the Alpine glaciation, known as the Albanian Alps, present a rare natural value, serving as an aesthetic attraction and a challenge for high-altitude mountaineering.
Natural Features
Sharp and jagged ridges, inaccessible peaks, deep cirques, steep cliffs, numerous river and stream springs are some of the geographical features generously bestowed upon this area by nature.
Starting Point: Grebaje Valley
One of the starting points for hiking in this region is the Grebaje Valley. This picturesque valley houses two mountain lodges, a small complex of shepherd bungalows with accommodation for about thirty guests, and several weekend cottages.
A Glimpse into History
The Grebaje Valley is a true mountain paradise. Until the 1950s, Grebaje was a restricted military security zone, making access limited. After this period, a group of hikers from Belgrade, led by Branko Kotlajić, discovered the beauty of the valley.
Majestic Peaks
The valley is surrounded by numerous peaks, with the most technically demanding ones being Očnjak and Ljuljaševića Karanfili. For hiking enthusiasts, physically and technically less demanding peaks like Volušnica (Maja Cat), Popadija, Talijanka, Karaula, and many others offer a delightful experience.
Exploring the Unmarked Trails
Apart from Durmitor, other mountains in Montenegro are sparsely marked, and in some sections, there are no hiking markers at all. Therefore, it is recommended to start from Grebaje with a guide or someone familiar with the area. It is worth noting that neither in Gusinje nor in Grebaje will it be possible to buy a map with marked hiking trails and attractions to see.
The Circular Route
The circular route chosen is on the opposite side of Očnjak and Karanfili, providing a phenomenal view of these peaks throughout the hike. The route starts from the mountain lodge of the “Radnički” mountaineering club (Belgrade), through the forest to the Volušnica valley, and then to the peak of Maja Cat, offering the best view of the peaks on the western side of the valley (Očnjak and Karanfili).
Continuing the Adventure
The path continues along the cirque to nearby peaks Popadija and Talijanka, along the border between Montenegro and Albania. The area is covered with pastures, flocks of sheep, and bushes of blueberries and wild strawberries.
Local Traditions
Local shepherds hardly pay attention to the border, moving back and forth as they have done for centuries.
Panoramic Views from Talijanka
The view from Talijanka is a treat for any nature lover. On this remote spot, one can encounter locals tending sheep or picking blueberries. The remnants of old shepherd huts can be seen across the landscape, indicating how lively these pastures must have been in the past.
Descending to the Lodge
Descending from Talijanka, passing by a beautiful stream and waterfall, the path leads back to the mountain lodge. The water from the mountain spring is cold, clear, and extremely refreshing.
Easy but Beautiful Route
This route is one of the easiest and technically least demanding, yet it does not lag in beauty compared to other trails leading from Grebaje. Routes leading to the western peaks are more challenging, falling within the domain of high-altitude mountaineering and characterized by a rugged, romantic beauty that makes one aware of nature’s power.
Rest and Relaxation
After a day of hiking, accommodations in a shepherd bungalow provide comfortable beds and hot showers. Other options include setting up tents in designated areas for a small fee or camping near the mountain lodge for free.
Hospitality and Development
If tourism is to develop and thrive, local hosts will need to improve their hospitality services significantly. The idea of designating Montenegrin Prokletije as a national park has been discussed for some time. Protecting these natural beauties from harmful human influence is essential, but it should not be done merely for collecting fees.
The Grebaje Valley remains a stunning revelation, inviting countless future visits.
