Main Peaks and Hidden Trails
Apart from the well-known trails leading to the three main and most attractive peaks of Komovi—Vasojevićki Kom (2461m), Kučki Kom (2487m), and Ljevorečki Kom (2463m)—there are many other exciting and beautiful trails in the closer or wider area of this magical mountain. These trails are lesser-known or completely unknown to hikers and tourists. One such trail is the circular route around Komovi, which has become increasingly known in recent years but is still not fully utilized for tourism.
Historical Shepherd’s Trail
The trail around Komovi has a history older than today’s hiking and recreational story. It was once a shepherd’s path connecting the Montenegrin tribes of Kuče, Bratonožiće, and Vasojeviće and their numerous shepherd settlements on the beautiful plateaus of Komovi. This trail was worn by traditional footwear and sheep herds rather than modern hiking boots. It was used to visit friends and godparents, attend gatherings, trade, and even for warfare. Through this path, passed voivodes, pashas, outlaws, and their leaders. The plateaus around Komovi and the mountains themselves have witnessed turbulent historical events and rich social and pastoral life for centuries. Today, only numerous abandoned shepherd huts remain, silently witnessing the past, while the well-preserved nature continues to attract adventurers.
Trail Starting Points
The trail starts from Štavna (1720m), but it can also begin from the Popović Katun (Carine, 1870m), Pričelje, or Ljuban, and in any direction. However, Štavna is the common starting point due to its accommodation and most convenient access.
Exploring the Trail
From Štavna, the trail descends alongside Jankova Voda into the Ljubaštica Valley, formed by the drainage of a large glacier from the Međukomlje glacial basin. From the riverbed, the trail climbs through dense forest to the grassy slopes of Ljuban and its katuns. At Ljuban, at a location called Bjelaga, one passes by mysterious old marble stones that resist the ravages of time and intrigue passersby and tourists. They are a reminder of a tragic event from the 19th century when various outlaw bands would plunder shepherds’ livestock. According to legend, two shepherds whose bones rest eternally at Ljuban were avenged the following year when the same bandits were defeated.
From Ljuban to Rogamska Plateau
From Ljuban, the trail continues towards the Rogamska Plateau, passing by the western sides of Ljevorečki Kom and Kučki Kom through the Rogamski cirque, passing by Crnja springs and the best drinking water source in Komovi, Crni Izvori (Rogamsko Vrelo). This exceptionally beautiful and attractive section offers fantastic views of the vertical cliffs of these two Komovi peaks. From Crni Izvori, the trail ascends steeply beneath Rogamski Vrh and the beginning of Rogamska Plateau (2113m), which extends northward to Ljevorečke Rupe, forming a very attractive hiking section leading to Bara Kraljska. The trail soon reaches the pass Ćafa od Pričelja (2105m), from where Rogamski Vrh (2303m) and Suvovrh (2211m) can be climbed. From this pass, there are beautiful views of Rogam and the Pričelje Katun (1810m) on one side and the entire customs cirque and surrounding mountains on the other. Here begins the second part of the route.
Descending to Popović Katun
From the pass, the trail quickly descends into the Popović Katun (1860m), once one of the largest katuns in Carine, now full of remnants of shepherds’ huts. The famous Montenegrin voivode Marko Miljanov once had his hut here. In the katun, one hut has been converted into an open-type mountain lodge where travelers can spend the night or seek shelter from bad weather, and a spring is located nearby.
Continuing to Varde
From Carine, the trail continues along the eastern slopes of Vasojevićki Kom, through Borovi Pod to Varde Hill, where Vasojevićke watchtowers once stood, and below it is the former katun of the same name, inhabited by shepherds from the village of Japan. This section passes through wild terrain, with views of the beautiful border mountains and the wild Mojanska River valley.
Final Stretch Through Beech Forest
From Varde (1727m), the final easy section leads through the beech forest (Mačak), where there are several springs. Finally, after this full-day adventure, the trail ends at Štavna, where one can relax in the evening at the Štavna Eco Katun, enjoying the divine traditional Montenegrin cuisine.
A Must-Do Hike
The circular route around Komovi is a must-do hiking destination for all lovers of Komovi and those new to discovering this mountain, which poets have called the emperor among mountains. Anyone with the stamina for long hikes can complete this trail. It is safe, and as long as basic hiking rules are followed, there is no danger.
